When I make a plan, I like to stick to it. So when I said that we were going to walk the 1350 steps up to Kotor’s San Giovanni Fortress, despite it being the hottest day of the year, we did it!
Boy, that was sweltering but propelled by the photos I’d seen online, we carried on climbing up those steps!
- 1 Montenegrin history
- 2 Kotor Bay
- 3 Kotor town
- 4 Which entrance?
- 5 Our route
- 6 Those bloody cruise ships!
- 7 Church of Our Lady of Remedy
- 8 Look down!
- 9 Small fort
- 10 Detour to St. George’s Church
- 11 Explore at your own peril
- 12 Castle of San Giovanni
- 13 Pretty stones and doorways
- 14 Kotor – like something out of a fairytale?
- 15 Looking for a harder hike?
- 16 A very short video
- 17 Top Tips
- 18 Pin this
Kotor town was constructed between the 9th and 19th centuries although the fortification’s walls did not create a continuous ring around itself until the 13th century.
While the Venetians were responsible for the vast majority of the fortification, the Illyrians, Byzantines and Austrians also left their architectural identity on the old town.
Montenegro is a tiny country with a population of just 622,000. It has a turbulent history being occupied by the Austro-Hungarians, the Italians and forming part of the Yugoslavian empire. Montenegrin history appears violent and bloody but in 2006 it became an independent nation (ceasing links with Serbia) following a peaceful referendum.
It might be small but it certainly packs a punch with regards to natural beauty.
Kotor Bay, which is a natural harbour in Montenegros north, is a picturesque area complete with rolling grey mountains, jade coloured water, (tide-dependent) pebbled beaches and distinct small, stone villages dotted around the inlet.
The area dates back to the Middle Ages when it was an important artistic and commercial centre with famous schools of masonry and iconography. Masonry and stone work are still studied in the region and many houses around the bay are restored during the winter months using these old techniques. The whole area is protected under the UNESCO World Heritage-listed area.
A large number of the Kotor monuments (including four Romanesque churches and the town walls) were seriously damaged by the 1979 earthquake but the town has been lovingly restored, largely with UNESCO’s help.
The old village of Kotor stands on the south-easterly point of the bay. It’s walls divide the sea and land.
This post will concentrate on the birds-eye view from the Fortress Walls but if you’d like to see some photos from inside the town, head here.
High above the town, the city walls represent a mix of ramparts, gates, churches and fortresses, 4.5 km long. During the day the grey of the rock blends with the grey stones of the walls making it challenging to see. No doubt it was designed this way to confuse enemies but at night it is beautifully lit up and you can see it with ease from around the bay.
There are a number of entrances into the town including the river gate and the sea gate but there are also a number of different start locations.
In fact, there are THREE different start points to the walk and these are easily spotted (as sign posted) as you walk through the town. We decided to go up the northern route and down the southern route. I would say that in terms of difficulty they are similar.
Entry costs €3 for adults and kids under 13 are free, although adults only pay during the peak tourist season which is May – September. Technically the walk never closes or opens however the charging stations become active at about 7:30am until the sun sets. Prior to that you could walk up for free.
I decided to plot our route with a phone app.
Although there are no contour lines this gives you an idea of how steep the route is. The route actually comprises mostly worn stone steps but there are occasions where you can leave the path – although you’re advised not to.
Those bloody cruise ships!
At anyone time there can be up to four cruise ships docking in the bay of Kotor and this swells the population by over 6,000 people.
Now I am not saying that all of them are podgy-waisted, loud mouthed, beige wearing Yanks or umbrella yielding, arm-warmer claddened Chinese, but that was certainly the impression we got.
On our way up we were greeted by this large American and her husband attempting to parent our kids by telling them not to lean over the edges and then drawl-screaming at the top of her lungs
HOLY SHEISE IT’S HOT TODAY
I swear that is all I could hear on the way up and it drove me mad!
When we half way up, we couldn’t stop off at the church due to the number of umbrellas blocking the way.
I’d estimate that despite leaving to walk at 10am we were four of four hundred people walking and the town below probably had about 3,000 people in it.
It’s busy and we felt that because of that, the town and walk had lost some of its charm. I would definitely recommend visiting Kotor but do so when it isn’t peak holiday time.
Church of Our Lady of Remedy
If you don’t stop to take photos, the walk should take about 45 minutes. The half way point is the Church of Our Lady of Remedy.
At an altitude of 100m above sea level (not very high) the church was built in 1518 by survivors of the 14th century plague and became a pilgrimage site.
I couldn’t get any photos because it was THAT BUSY and because I am not in the least bit religious!
Looking down upon Kotor’s terracotta rooftops is one of the joys of this walk. The old town is small and cramped and a jiggly-piggly mess of overlapping rooftops and clothes lines.
I found photographing the roof-tops addictive as there always a different angle or view to try and get and the details in the houses mesmerising.
Nearing the top, we first came to the small fort: an explore-at-your-own-risk (and we did), historic playground of empty rooms with floors overgrown with green growth. We navigated our way through the crumbling walls, going up stairs just to see where they led.
Detour to St. George’s Church
Just beyond the small fort, we came to a fork in the road. We decided to take a detour and climb through a window in the walls. A narrow dirt path led into a small valley between two hills, where we saw a small, rather dilapidated church. The door was open, but what a pity: the interior was ruined and we could only see some faded fragments of old frescoes and a stone altar at the end. This appeared to be the church of St. George, built 1000 years ago on the back side of St. John’s hill.
Explore at your own peril
We love a bit of adventure so when we saw the danger and no entry advised, we headed straight for it like bees to honey. I was going to use the phrase like a pig in shit… and I suppose we are. We love a bit of risk!
Castle of San Giovanni
The fortress which sits roughly 250 meters (820 feet) above sea level is mostly a hollowed out shell however it is quite big and with more rooms and levels to explore.
You’re entirely free to climb on anything and explore what you want.
Once we’d arrived at the fortress, we decided to stop for a bite to eat and got out our mini picnic. It was hot work climbing all those steps and we needed to replenish before heading back out to explore some more.
The phenomenal views from the fortress stretch the length of the bay and give you uninterrupted views across the valley although you might have to wait a while for a photo without other people in it…
I told the kids I was going higher to take a photo of them and when I looked back down, Imogen (our youngest) was trying to climb the barriers to ‘get a better view’.
Pretty stones and doorways
If you like old architecture, decaying stones, carved doorways, secret passageways and more, you’ll enjoy what this fortress has to offer.
Kotor – like something out of a fairytale?
Kotor is beautiful. Surrounded by those looming walls the town itself is small and quaint. The medieval architecture makes it a UNESCO heritage site for good reason and whilst I’ve heard people describe it as a ‘fairytale village’, I wouldn’t described it as such.
It’s pretty but as I’ve said previously I think mass-tourism has spoiled it.
Looking for a harder hike?
Let’s be honest in saying this walk isn’t exactly a hike. The stone steps are so worn that an American tourist told me they were marble! They’re not marble just in case you’re wondering.
But if you’re looking for something a little more hike like, scroll down!
Hiking ‘The Ladder‘ is a harder hike and runs up the back of the mountain, perpendicular to Kotor’s walls. Called “The Ladder” because of it’s steepness and over seventy switchbacks it offers just as good views but minus the hoards of people.
It is still busy, as hikes go, but nothing in comparison to the Fortress.
The path begins just before you get to the Old Town (coming from Perast), shown below on the map.
There are several options – see below.
You can turn this hike into a circular hike by returning down onto Kotor’s walls. For a much steeper hike you can head on up to Nevjesta Jadrana which is a restaurant perched high above Kotor valley. You will have certainly earned a meal and I’m happy to report that the food is pretty good!
A very short video
A very short video from the top of the San Giovanni Fortress
- Wear suitable footwear. I saw people struggling to climb in flipflops. Yeh, no shit!! The steps are worn and slippy so wear something with some sole grip.
- If it’s possible, avoid the summer holiday or whenever a cruise ship is in.
- Start early in the summer months to avoid the heat. The sun starts heating up at around 10am.
- Take water or cash. There is water for sale at various points on the routes up during the summer months.
- Put your empty bottles in the TRASH BAGS and not on the floor. It is disgraceful how much rubbish there is up there.
- Buy a painting from the man at the top. His work is talented and prices start at €15.
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