On the outskirts of Battambang in Cambodia, it’s a long and hot 358 stone-step walk up to reach Prasat Banan. However, we think it’s worth it and we’ll try to explain why.
What to Know About Visiting Prasat Banan
About 20 km south of Battambang city, you’ll find this steep temple compound surrounded by dense foliage.
Mostly constructed from sandstone and laterite, Prasat Banan was constructed in the 11th century by Udayadityavarman II. Although this now mountaintop, Angkorian ruin saw a Buddhist makeover during the 12th century during the reign of Jayarvarman VII, the original Hindu temple dates back to 1050.
Prasat Banan: The start of the climb
At the base of the mountain you are faced with a steep laterite staircase flanked by nagas and to reach the peaceful serenity of Wat Banan, you have to walk up approximately 400 meters and 358 painstaking and sweltering steps! You might be met by eager locals selling drinks so take some coins with you.
Although the climate is hot and sweaty, the steps are lined with trees which do help with the intensity. The stairs appear daunting but the view from the top is unique and definitely worth the effort.
At the top
There are currently five, precariously balanced temple towers and several impressive carved lintels remain above the doorways and bas-reliefs on the upper parts of the central tower. Not bad for an 800-year-old pile of stones.
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Historical Looting
Unfortunately, Phnom Banan has been the subject of heavy looting but it remains mostly upright, if a little teetering in places. Just be mindful of your head. That being said, we thought this hilltop temple was idyllic and gave the impression of lost eras of a time that was no doubt very different to today. We found it a little romantic, maybe because it was quite quiet and semi-deserted.
The odd flower growing wildly furthered the impression that the area was a natural beauty but with an unkempt breeze. We really enjoyed it up here.
Buddha Statues
We know from Henri Mouhot (the French man who re-discovered the temples) that in the 1800’s there were numerous Buddha statues inside the temples and an enormous, guardian statue at the entrance.
Due to some serious looting over the last few centuries there are only half a dozen in the centre spire, where devout Buddhists still come to receive a blessing from the resident monk who seems to live up there in a hammock. You might hear his radio before you see him.
Family time
Whilst we were there, it was not uncommon to see local families having hauled up their picnic with large pots of curry and rice and with additional bags full of food and drinks, enjoying the peaceful views atop this national monument.
Mountain Views
From the mountaintop are superb views across the surrounding countryside, with small villages dotted through the endless rice paddies which are punctuated with the characteristic sugar palm trees. To the south you will see Crocodile Mountain and to the northwest Phnom Sampeau.
Little known or visited is the cave at the bottom of Phnom Banan. The old name for the cave was Cave of Sacred Water and it is believed that drinking the water that drips from a stalactite inside the cave will bring knowledge of the past, present and future. I’m not convinced by this and think that legionnaires or SARS would be more probable!
The Cave
The present name of the cave (L’Ang But Meas) means Walls of Gold. Alas, we didn’t stumble upon any gold although a beam of light penetrates from an opening in the cave’s roof. This cave will not be for everyone though as you do have to scramble into the cave on your belly through a very tight opening. Don’t wear your best whites!
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