Sidi Ifni, what a cesspit. Morocco

I usually avoid leaving bad reviews on here. If I have nothing really positive to say, I tend just to avoid the subject. However after four days in Sidi Ifni we left early and headed back to Agadir to spend our only night in a hotel.

We try really hard to ‘live like locals’ and show our kids how local people truly live however after suffering with diarrhea and sickness twice in two weeks, having no wifi, being surrounded by rubbish and staying in really substandard accommodation, we were tired, dirty and craving cleanliness.

Let’s start at the beginning

Rich works away at least two weeks out of every month, sometimes more, and whilst we were staying north of Agadir he had to leave for China.  We had already planned and booked to go to Sidi Ifni so the children and I decided we’d still go down and stay by ourselves.

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The lighthouse in sidi ifni

Sidi Ifni

Located in the Souss region of Morocco, Sidi Ifni served as a Spanish port from the mid-19th century until it was ceded to Morocco in 1969. From the 1930s until the late 1960s, the town hosted a large Spanish population and the guide books promised crumbling Spanish-built fortifications, Spanish signposts and funky European art-deco architecture next to traditional Moroccan homes. Not to mention ‘the best beach in Morocco’.

We thought this would be pretty cool to see…. so we headed off.

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An aerial view of Sidi Ifni, borrowed from Google.

Where’s the road?

We arrived in on the road from Aglou; a partial coastal road that leads through what can only be described as half-built tourist complexes and shabby, decaying Moroccan towns that have seen better days.

Eventually after an hour’s drive we arrived into a town with no surfaced road, dust and dirt everywhere and a stench that would turn a corpse!

I think they must have been relaying the roads BY HAND, because four days later (although there were people working on the roads) no progress had been made.

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A village on the way to Sidi Ifni

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A half built tourist village that look abandoned on the road from Aglou.

Men men everywhere….

Throughout the town the roads are just dirt tracks with orange tinted soil covering them. The main road is lined with cafes and an abundance of men, everywhere.

Even walking through the smaller walkways of the souks and other roads, you’ll be hard pushed to find many women out during the day.  We found this very difficult because the men can be quite misogynistic; they’ll stare, call out, beg, make comments and generally it made us feel very uncomfortable!

I only took my camera out once as I felt so uncomfortable and therefore I don’t have many photos of Sidi Ifni

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Sidi Ifni streets

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Sidi Ifni road

Poooo, what’s that smell?

The kids were desperate to go to the beach, so making our way past the lighthouse we took the track down to the beach passing what could only be described as a flow of raw sewage.

It stank like raw sewage, it looked like sewage and it was meandering its way down to the beach. I’m guessing it’s also a regular occurance because the locals were just hopping over it and carrying on.

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Raw sewage leading onto the beach

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Sidi Ifni sewage


I was aghast at the beach – I don’t think I’ve ever seen that much rubbish. If we though Aglou Beach was bad this was a thousand times worse.

I didn’t even want the kids to take off their shoes, let alone paddle because it was DISGUSTING! From dirty nappies floating in the water to plastic bottles and everything in between. I was horrified and all I could think of was cholera!!

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Rubbish in an abandoned building on the way down to the beach.

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Rubbish on the beach

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Rubbish on the beach

Cleaned up for the summer

When I asked about the state of the beach, I was told it was ‘cleaned up for the summer tourists’… but why not just keep it nice ALL the time?

Locals clearly throw rubbish over the cliff side.

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Rubbish thrown over the cliffs. Everything WHITE is rubbish!!

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They insisted on taking their shoes off!!


I would never return again. The thought of returning makes my skin crawl but I hate to end on a bad note, so here’s some photos of the sunset 🙂

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The kids playing in the water

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Sunset from the beach

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sidi ifni at sunset

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Last glimpse of the sun

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As a small child my favourite book was 'People of the World' which featured Inuits from Alaska, children from China and farmers from Peru. It was a glimpse into another world that would inspire me to wander the globe in search of something special.


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